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Most of the references I can find regarding the 20-14 Jeep Compass with the 2.0-litre petrol engine suggest that it requires premium unleaded fuel with an octane rating of at least 95 RON. Given that the engine has a fairly high compression ratio (one of the factors for requiring PULP) of 10.5:1, that’s not really a surprise even if the output of 115kW doesn’t suggest a highly tuned engine. I’d be inclined to take the Jeep dealer’s advice and use premium fuel. Engines tuned for PULP can suffer internal damage if they’re run on an inferior grade of fuel.

The other question is why there is a discrepancy between the handbook and the dealership. The advice to Compass owners in the US is to use low-octane fuel (as low as 87 RON) where possible. This is possibly because the engine uses a different state of tune on the US market. One guess, therefore, is that while the Australian version of the Jeep requires PULP, the handbook hasn’t been changed from the US version to reflect this.

DPF technology is fast becoming the bane of turbo-diesel owners. The filter is designed to trap some of the nasty exhaust emissions of a diesel engine and then automatically burn them off at high temperature periodically, emptying the filter in the process. But way too often, this isn’t happening according to the script and filters are either clogging up, requiring a manual clean-out or, in extreme cases, complete replacement.

This is possibly what’s happened to your car and explains why both the DPF and check-engine light have illuminated. It’s the car’s way of telling you you need to act. While it’s generally true that vehicles like yours that do more highway kilometres than city running have fewer DPF problems, all turbo-diesel fitted with such a filter have the potential to give trouble. An electronic scan of the Triton should show whether the DPF and check-engine light are related.

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

Even if the two cars were from the same production month and year, you’ve got some serious mis-matches there; enough to make the job far more time, effort and money than it’s worth. For a start, the two-wheel-drive Colorado won’t have the extra differential and drive-shafts to mate with the twin drive-shafts that the all-wheel-drive gearbox will have. So you’d have to somehow blank that front driveshaft off. Or, add the front differential and axle which will also probably require different front suspension. Prop-shaft lengths are likely to be different between a manual and an automatic version of the same car, too.

Then there’s all the other things that can suddenly catch you out. In many cases, the manual and automatic versions of a particular car will have different transmission tunnels and different holes in the floor for the shifter to poke through. Even the centre consoles can be non-interchangeable. The dashboard of an automatic car with its PRNDL display will also be different to the manual one. Then there’s the question of wiring looms which can also be vastly different to suit the specific requirements of each driveline layout (a modern automatic needs lots of electrical inputs). In fact, the on-board computer is very likely to be different between the two transmissions on that basis as well.

Following on from that, what about the sensors to control the all-wheel-drive system? Or even the rotary dial inside the car to select the different four-wheel-drive modes? A two-wheel-drive car just won’t have them nor even possibly the access points to add them. And what about the real basics? Things like the automatic car not having a clutch pedal. That requires a full pedal change inside the car. None of this stuff is simple, easy or cheap.

To be honest, the engines themselves are very possibly interchangeable, but even if that’s all you swapped (and not the transmission) you’d still need to change the flywheel and plenty of little details.

By far the best advice is to simply buy the version of the Colorado you want.